CHURCHES and CHAPELS

June 2013

The Nabantinos – the people of Tomar

Templar City – the city’s architecture

Convent of Christ – the former Templar convent

While Tomar is best known for the remarkable Convent of Christ, the city is also rich in archaeological remains and historic buildings scattered throughout its historic centre. Among those that stood out most to me were the churches and chapels described below.

Chapel of Saint Iria

Located across from the Ponte Velha (Old Bridge), this early 16th-century chapel was built in honour of Saint Iria (Irene), the patron saint of Tomar.

According to tradition, in the year 653 Iria—a young nun—was falsely accused of pregnancy by one suitor and murdered by another, who threw her body into the Nabão River. The chapel features a Renaissance portal and altar, Manueline details, 17th-century tiles, and a notable stone-sculpted Calvary.

Church of Santa Maria do Olival

Commissioned in 1160 by Dom Gualdim Pais, this church served as the headquarters and burial site of the Knights Templar. It underwent major modifications in the 13th century and again in the 16th, when most Templar tombs were removed and additional chapels were added along the south side.

Upon entering, visitors descend eight steps to the main floor—a symbolic gesture of submission to God. Inside, three naves are supported by eight unadorned columns forming Gothic arches beneath a wooden ceiling. Light enters through:

• an eight-metre rose window
• eight upper windows in the central nave
• a five-point star window above the altar
• eight tall, narrow windows behind the altar
• several smaller, scattered openings

Notable elements include the statue of the Virgin Mary behind the altar, depicted restraining the nursing child rather than blessing it, and the recurring symbolism of the number eight and star imagery—both associated with the Templars. The square tower at the front, once used as a watch post, now serves as a bell tower.

Church and Convent of São Francisco

Construction began in 1628 and was completed in 1660 with the addition of the bell tower. This complex is a clear example of Chã architecture, characterized by simplicity and restraint. The church consists of a single nave with a barrel-vault ceiling. Above the main altar stands a rare, life-sized Calvary. Smaller side chapels contain altars dedicated to the Virgin Mary and other saints.

Chapel of Our Lady of the Conception (Nossa Senhora da Conceição)

Built around 1536 halfway up the hill leading to the Convent of Christ, this chapel was intended as the royal mausoleum for King João III, though he was ultimately buried in Lisbon for political reasons.

The chapel features rich geometric and floral decoration, three naves, six finely carved Corinthian columns, a vaulted ceiling, and a central tower. Its Mannerist style, strongly influenced by Italian architecture, is rare in Portugal.

Church of São João Baptista

Commissioned by King Manuel I and completed in 1510, this is Tomar’s main church, located in the Praça da República. It combines Manueline and Gothic elements and has been classified as a National Monument since 1910.

Notable features include:

• a white and gold Baroque altar
• three naves
• Renaissance paintings
• a pulpit carved from Ançã stone
• a 16th-century clock tower relocated from the Templar Castle

Synagogue of Tomar

Built in the mid-15th century, the synagogue was repurposed after the expulsion of Jews from Portugal in 1496, first as a prison, then as a church, and later as a storage space. In the 1930s, it was purchased and restored by Samuel Schwarz, who later donated it to the Portuguese government. Its most distinctive feature is the ceiling, supported by four columns and twelve pointed Moorish arches. The columns are said to represent the four matriarchs of Israel, while the arches symbolize the twelve tribes. Since 1939, the building has housed the Jewish Museum of Tomar.

© 2014 Gaetano Antonini